After Friday with no message or calls from les girls—I was pretty sure there were Wanted posters with my face in them all over the Quarter, or that I had made some horrible faux pas over the mango salsa—I was pretty disconsolate.
I sat in the courtyard in the waning sun, texted Keith and heard nothing, then called James, went to bed, as I mentioned, early, at 8:30 p.m. and fell asleep about an hour later. James called back at 10:30 from a comedy club where he had just bombed, and said he’d call again when he left. I told him not to bother, as I was already asleep.
On Saturday, I had agreed to go to breakfast with Scott and Beth. Had some strawberries and half a stale croissant from the fallow girls’ night loot I’d bought at Croissant D’Or, and Beth called. They walked over to the guest house while I was caught in a very entertaining hustle/conversation with one Malcolm, supposed percussionist for the Rebirth Brass Band. He claimed he had started a new band of underpriviliged siblings, boys and girls, and needed money for their instruments. Lots of pictures were produced, promises to send CDs, a great spiel about the seven principles of community. Scott went in for five bucks and we agreed the story was worth it. Rachel was leaving the Bohemian Armadillo as we walked out, and since we were all going to Stanley, we walked over together.
It was crowded—a beautiful Saturday morning—and there was a wait, so we decided to eat together if Rachel couldn’t get a spot at the counter. With a half-hour wait, Beth and Scott and I took a stroll around the square. Ran into James, who wanted me to take him to dinner for my last night.
Could not break out of my Eggs Stanley habit—I need those little fried oysters in the morning. Lycia and Leslie called while I was eating, and I figured Leslie wanted the birthday presents people had sent to Sans Souris, so I agreed to meet her at Erin Rose, where she and Jeff were spending their day off over Irish coffees. The day was really warm now, and I was in jeans, boots and a cashmere tunic, so uncomfortable, with a closet of pretty floaty dresses I hadn’t worn because it’s been so chilly. I raced back to the guest house, gathered the gifts, hoofed it back up to the Erin Rose and had a drink with Leslie and Jeff. Then I left, strolled down Royal where the Road Testd food thingie was happening—a billion vendors out in booths with food samples for sale, and on the upper part, the 300 block, an attempt to construct the world’s longest po’boy, with various restaurants adding their spin to each section. I got a coconut snowball from Plum Street and ate it, walking in the sun, and stopped to watch a few numbers by the band in front of Rouse’s.
Called Lycia again—we kept missing each other—and finally decided to see if she’d be at the park for to switch bikes between Jeff’s tours. Just as I rolled up, Lee called me from Lycia’s phone asking where I was—I could see the truck—and they said they’d been texting me for the past three days and getting no response.
It’s funny, because I could receive calls, I thought my phone worked fine. What I didn’t realize is that only half my phone worked, and that everyone texts anyway and no one had actually cut me off. So weird.
I was relieved to see them, and they looked gorgeous in pretty dresses and sunglasses with flowers in their hair. Me still in dingy winter cladding. We took off just as Jeff’s rival, some guy who ripped off his tour, was embarking on his route, so we followed him indeiscreetly, three girls crammed into the front seat of a cab truck, pointing and yelling, “Pull over!,” “No, go!,” and “Did he turn?” Finally, we decided it was kind of unprofessional—stupid route; he just made a loop anyway—and went back to Lycia’s to drop off the bikes. Lee is looking to rent half of a double shotgun three doors down from Lycia, so we harassed the lady who owns it—well, we politely asked the neighbor, who turned out to be her nephew, if she was home and he called her on the phone, to our chagrin—and she let us in, looking rather peeved. It’s a beautiful space with a huge backyard and enormous oak tree out front.
Then we split in search of a nice place with a patio to sit outside and get a drink. We tried Feelings Café, where I’d been in May, thanks to Ray’s string-pulling, but it doesn’t open for lunch except Sundays. We drove around and ended up at the Country Club, a beautiful wooden mansion on Louisa at Royal where Ray and Kim went almost every day to swim naked with other men and to eat the excellent food, presumably not naked. We sat on the wide front porch and I took off my jeans, in Country Club style. The bottomless mimosa offer was about to run out, so we hurriedly ordered three and some salads and had a very lovely, ladylike time on the shady porch with sun blooming through the Bywater. Lee made plans, if she gets the place, to host a gloves-and-hats croquet party when Tom and I come back and the weather is fine.
Then we drove to Tete’s, the bar Lycia wants to buy, found the owner drinking with friends in the garage next door, and took a tour. It’s perfect for her and she is wild to find a backer. It would break my heart if she doesn’t get it. The area’s not great for, like, walking around, but it’s on an intersection that’s a hub of popular and neighborhood bars, and the ’40s lounge she’s envisioning would be unique in that area. Plus, as former bartenders, they know a lot of people who have followings and would create a core group of regulars as they built up a constituency. The best part was seeing them ask to go behind the bar and pace it professionally, feeling the coolers, testing the floor, murmuring about where the liquor should be stored and whether the lighting was right.I love finding out how people’s work works, watching dedicated professionals involved in the minutae of their craft.
Lycia went back to the park to wait for Jeff’s tour to return, and Lee and I walked over to the guest house to finish off the last of the white wine I couldn’t leave behind. We had a nice hour of chat in the sunny courtyard (they moved the garbage cans; hurrah!) and then she left so I could shower and change.
Finally got the girls’ night out. Went to the Apple Barrel, went to Molly’s, went to the Alibi. I didn’t pack until morning.
On Sunday, I met Lycia for coffee at La Peniche and that was that. Wish I could record all of the incidental conversations I got into or overheard, wish I’d kept this thing up more carefully and had time to slow down and talk about details of the city—like the fact that everyone in every neighborhood paints their addresses on their garbage bins, but no one worries abut bikes being stolen—but without Internet for six days, I got so behind and it became all, then I did this, then I did that. Sorry.
The city kept up its music-blasting, friendly, eccentric, intoxicating magic right up to the airport. Tom met me at the airport, which was a first. Home to cold weather, which will be getting better soon, and very freaked out cats. Slept and read all day and we watched “The Princess and the Frog” over dinner, a little coda to my month.